®l|f  B.  B.  Bill  iCibraru 

Nnrtl)  (Earaltna  g>talp 


This  book  was  presented  by 

MILTON  M.  LEONARD,  D.V.M. 

TO  THE 

VETERINARY  MEDICAL  LIBRARY 


NORTH  ^AROi;Na   'M^-f:  UNIvF'' 


S00716959 


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2  4  2007 


Feeding  and  Care 


Of  the 


Domestic  and 
Long-Haired  Cat 


V 


"By 
ELLEN  V.  CELTY  and  ANNA  RAY 


Bebicatei) 

€o"mw 

WHO  WAS 

RESPONSIBLE 

FOR 

HAMPTON 

CATTERY 


Copyright,  1922 
By  Ellen  V.  Celty 


Champion  Winter  Wonder.  Chinchilla  Male 
Owned   by   Hampton   Cattery     Cleveland    Ohio 


CONTENTS 

I.      The  Cattery 7 

II.     Stud  Cats 10 

III.  Care  of  Stud  Cat 12 

IV.  The  Breeding  Queen 14 

V.     Neuter  Cats 15 

VI.      Mating   Season 16 

VII.      At  Time  of  Mating 17 

VIII.      Care  of  Queen  in  Kitten 19 

IX.      Queen  at  Time  of  Kittening 20 

X.      Kittens 22 

XL  Kittens  Aged  One  to  Eight  Months  24 

XII.      Feeding 27 

XIII.  Daily  Care  of  the  Long-haired  Cat.  30 

XIV.  Care  of  Ears 32 

XV.     Care  of  Eyes 33 

XVI.      Teeth 34 

XVII.      Worms 35 

XVIII.      Vomiting 37 

XIX.      Dysentery 38 

XX.     Skin  Diseases 39 

XXI.      Distemper 40 

XXII.      Preparing  for  Shows. 45 

XXIII.      Medicines  to  Keep  on  Hand 47 


THE   CATTERY 


ABC    Cat  Book  on  Feeding  and  Care  of  the 
Domestic  and  Long-haired  Cat. 

CHAPTER  I 

The  Cattery 

The  owner  of  one  or  two  cats,  if  they  be 
queens  or  neuters,  is  not  confronted  with  the 
problem  of  proper  housing;  but  should  you 
find  yourself  with  two  or  more  males  and  sev- 
eral queens,  it  then  becomes  necessary  to  give 
them  proper  quarters  in  which  to  live.  The 
building  does  not  need  to  be  elaborate;  but 
if  possible  should  have  a  southern  exposure, 
well  up  from  the  ground,  plenty  of  windows,  as 
light  and  air  are  very  essential.  Large,  roomy 
quarters  for  each  male,  and  do  not  attempt  to 
house  two  males  together. 

Each  room  should  be  at  least  four  by  six 
feet,  with  a  wood  floor,  covered  with  linoleum 
or  any  covering  that  can  be  scrubbed.  Rough 
wood  floors  not  properly  covered  spoil  the  cat's 
coat  and  make  a  good  hatching  place  for  flea 
eggs.  Attach  to  each  room  by  a  hole  cut  in  the 
wall  an  outside  run,  as  large  as  space  will  per- 
mit. I  would  suggest  that  this  run  be  roofed 
as  the  hot  sun  plays  havoc  with  the  color  of 
most  of  the  long-haired  cats.  These  outside 
runs  are  also  better  if  floored  and  covered,  and 


s  THE   DOMESTIC   AND   LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

if  protected  can  be  used  the  entire  year.  A 
grass  run  can  be  arranged  in  front  of  the 
covered  run  but  only  for  use  on  warm,  sunny 
days  as  dampness  is  fatal  to  young  stock  and 
does  not  agree  with  adult  cats. 

Each  inside  room  should  be  fitted  with  a 
shelf  under  the  window,  a  chair  if  possible,  a 
good  box  for  winter;  a  heavy  box  with  a  strip 
about  six  inches  wide  nailed  on  the  bottom  of 
the  front,  to  hold  the  bedding  in  place,  which 
should  consist  of  a  good  soft  pillow  or  pad ;  in 
fact,  I  use  feather  cushions  and  woolen  blankets 
in  extreme  cold  weather;  curtains  tacked  on 
the  front  of  the  box  with  an  opening  left  large 
enough  for  the  cat  to  enter,  makes  an  ideal 
sleeping  box.  In  the  summer  these  boxes  may 
be  replaced  by  open  baskets  and  a  light  pad. 
Each  room  should  also  contain  a  fair  sized 
granite  pan,  partly  filled  with  sand  or  saw  dust. 
I  prefer  saw  dust  as  it  does  not  hold  moisture 
as  long  as  sand  and  is  free  from  fleas. 

In  dividing  your  cattery  building,  if  you 
have  two  or  more  queens  who  will  live  together 
(most  of  them  like  company),  screen  off  a  large 
space  where  they  can  be  together.  If  you  plan 
to  raise  your  kittens  in  the  cattery,  then  a 
separate  room  of  extra  size  must  be  arranged 
where  the  mother  cat  with  her  kits  can  be  cared 
for.  Many  people  are  of  the  opinion  that  cats 
do   not   require    heat   in   their   houses   but   our 


THE  CATTERY  9 

winter  shows  have  proven  that  the  best  coated 
cats  have  been  housed  in  heated  catteries  with 
outside  runs  for  exercise.  A  cat  can  stand  cold 
in  moderation,  but  must  have  a  warm,  comfort- 
able place  to  sit  when  not  exercising. 

Be  sure  that  your  building  has  at  least  a 
six-foot  ceiling  and  a  sloping  roof.     See  that  it 
is  kept  immaculate,  the  pans  changed  regularly, 
for  the  cat  is  a  clean  animal  by  nature.     Keep 
sleeping  boxes  clean  and  if  you  can  add  a  wash 
rug  to  each  room  in  the  winter  and  a  pad  for 
each  shelf  and  a  toy  for  amusement,  so  much 
the  better.     If  the  building  can  be  kept  at  a 
temperature   of   sixty-five    degrees   in   extreme 
cold  weather,  during  the  day  and  reduced  at 
night,  the  inmates  should  be  very  comfortable. 
Do  not  let  the  cats  have  ^he  freedom  of  the  out- 
side runs  at  night.     Sudden  weather  changes 
and   dampness  may   cause   troubles;   close   all 
windows  at  night.     A  ventilator  in  an  upper 
corner  of  the  building  will  give  plenty  of  venti- 
lation and  the  cats  are  much  safer  and  your 
mind  at  rest.     Remember  that  to  have  healthy 
cats,  they  must  have  plenty  of  room  for  exercise. 
Too  many  cats  kept  in  close  confinement  will 
cause  sickness  and  trouble. 


10  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

CHAPTER  II 

Stud  Cats 

Great  care  should  be  taken  in  selecting  a 
male  for  stud  purposes.  He  should  be  as  near 
perfection  as  can  be  obtained.  Never  under- 
sized or  of  mixed  color  breeding.  To  the  novice 
I  would  suggest  that  you  go  to  the  most  reliable 
breeder  in  your  vicinity;  if  there  are  none  near 
at  hand,  write  to  the  office  of  a  good  cat  mag- 
azine and  the  information  will  be  gladly  sent 
to  you. 

Select  your  favorite  color  or  decide  the 
color  you  wish  to  breed.  It  is  best  to  start  with 
one  color  and  if  successful  take  up  other  colors 
later.  Next,  become  familiar  with  the  different 
strains  of  cats  that  have  been  winning  at  sanc- 
tioned shows;  be  sure  and  see  the  full  pedigree 
of  the  cat  you  think  of  purchasing.  Every 
animal  has  a  pedigree,  but  be  sure  to  have  the 
pedigree  show  the  color  of  all  the  ancestors  and 
if  registered  stock,  have  the  registration  num- 
bers attached.  If  buying  from  a  reliable  breed- 
er or  cattery,  this  information  will  be  gladly 
given  together  with  other  valuable  suggestions. 
A  young  male  is  best  to  start  with  but  sometimes 
an  older  stud  may  be  considered  if  he  is  a 
proven  sire  and  has  a  good  show  record.     But 


STUD  CATS  11 

usually  a  stud  of  this  kind  is  not  for  sale  and 
the  novice  might  do  better  to  buy  the  best  in  a 
young  litter  and  raise  their  own  stud.  In  this 
way  the  cat,  if  properly  trained,  by  this  I  mean 
kindly  treated,  is  more  easily  handled  for  stud 
purposes.  Registered  stock  is  the  only  stock 
to  breed  from  if  you  wish  to  keep  your  stock 
pure  and  have  a  reliable  record  of  the  breeding. 


12        THE   DOMESTIC   AND   LOXG-HATRED   CAT 

CHAPTER  III 
Care  of  Stud  Cat 

Never  allow  the  stud  cat  to  run  at  large, 
but  give  him  a  large  comfortable  room  with  an 
out-door  run  attached.  Be  sure  that  it  has 
windows  and  light.  The  room  should  be  at 
least  six  by  six  feet  or  it  may  be  four  feet  by 
eight  or  ten  feet.  If  you  have  more  than  one 
male,  do  not  have  their  rooms  adjoining,  let 
them  be  at  opposite  ends  of  the  building,  for 
sooner  or  later  they  will  become  quarrelsome 
and  injure  each  other  even  through  the  wire 
partition.  It  is  a  splendid  idea  to  keep  the 
room  next  to  the  stud  vacant  for  visiting  queens. 
In  this  way  she  can  recover  from  her  journey, 
become  acquainted  with  the  male,  who  no  doubt 
will  talk  to  her  through  the  wire  partition.  I 
find  one-inch  mesh  chicken  wire  the  best  for 
dividing  the  rooms,  with  a  one-foot  board  at  the 
bottom. 

The  male  should  not  be  bred  from  until  at 
least  a  year  old,  although  some  are  very  keen 
under  this  age.  Never  let  him  have  more  than 
one  queen  a  week  until  he  is  fully  developed. 
It  may  be  well  to  add  that  the  male  is  rarely 
fully  developed  until  three  years  old  but  will 
sire  at  an  early  age,  but  not  to  all  queens,  there- 
fore if  you  desire  a  vigorous  stud,  do  not  use  him 


CARE  OF  STUD  CAT  13 

too  often  while  young.  Make  a  pet  of  your 
male,  win  his  confidence,  spend  as  much  time 
with  him  as  you  can  and  you  will  have  far 
better  results.  The  stud  cat,  w^hose  owner  lets 
rough  it  and  looks  upon  him  as  a  machine,  is 
not  to  the  cat  you  wish  to  breed  your  queen  to 
at  any  price. 

I  have  knowm  of  studs  being  used  until 
they  refuse  to  look  at  a  queen;  this  is  not  done 
by  reliable  breeders  but  more  often  by  dealers 
who  think  more  of  the  financial  end  than  the 
breeding  of  good  animals. 


14  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 


CHAPTER  IV 

The  Breeding  Queen 

Great  care  should  be  used  in  selecting  a 
queen  for  breeding.     If  it  is  worth  the  time  and 
trouble  to  raise  cats,  it  is  far  more  satisfying 
both  from  a  show  point  view  as  well  as  finan- 
cially,  to   breed  them   on   scientific   principles. 
Therefore,  be  sure  the  queen's  pedigree  is  of 
the  best,  for  this  is  of  more  importance  than 
her   looks   although   we   like   to   possess   both. 
Select  the  color  you  prefer  and  be  sure  her  an- 
cestors have  been  this  color  for  at  least  five 
generations.     To   the   novice   I   would   suggest 
starting  with  a  good  queen;  if  you  can  buy  a 
queen  who  has  already  had  a  litter  of  kits  so 
much  the  better,  as  sometimes  the  young  queen 
is   nervous   and   may   not   have   nurse   for  her 
babies  and  to  the  novice  these  things,  while  not 
common,  might  prove  discouraging  to  the  be- 
ginner.       In  keeping  one   queen,  she   may  be 
given  the  freedom  of  the  house  and  trained  to 
go  out  for  a  walk  in  the  garden  or  grounds 
with  you.     Never  let  her  out  alone  or  at  some 
future  date  she  may  present  you  with  a  strange 
family  of  kits.     Provide  a  basket  or  box  for  her 
sleeping  place  and  train  her  to  sleep  in  this  at 
night.     It  is  better  to  confine  her  to  one  room  at 
night.     A  good  healthy  female  usually  weighs 
about  six  pounds  at  eight  months  to  a   year. 
Few  weigh  over  eight  pounds  at  maturity. 


NEUTER   CATS  15 


CHAPTER  V 
Neuter  Cats 

A  male  cat  neutered,  is  by  far  the  most  suc- 
cessful to  have  as  a  pet;  they  grow  much  larger 
than  the  female  or  male,  are  as  a  rule  in  good 
coat  and  also  quieter  than  the  male;   can  be 
kept  in  the  house  as  there  is  no  odor  attached 
to  them.     They  should  be  neutered  between  the 
age  of  six  to  ten  months,  if  increased  size  is  the 
object.     For    stay-at-home    purposes    and    in- 
offensiveness,    it    can    be    performed    at    any 
period.     The   female    is   sometimes   neutered, 
but  as  I  consider  this  operation  (except  when 
necessary  by  disease)   inhuman  and  extremely 
cruel,  I  do  not  recommend  it.     The  neutered 
cat  can  be  exhibited  at  shows,  but  of  course  can 
not  compete  for  championships.     Some  of  our 
most  beautiful  specimens  in  our  shows  are  the 
Neuters,  as  they  are  usually  in  good  coat  and 
are  of  great  size. 

Neuters  are  inclined  to  be  a  little  lazy  after 
they  are  full  grown,  so  care  should  be  taken  in 
their  feeding.  No  cereals  or  fattening  foods, 
and  after  the  age  of  three  years,  very  small 
meals,  only  once  or  twice  a  day  should  be  given. 
The  neuter  will  attain  greater  age  if  not  over- 
fed. 


16  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

CHAPTER  VI 

Mating  Season 

The  first  signs  of  wanting  to  breed  some- 
times occur  when  the  queen  is  eight  or  ten 
months  old;  unusual  affection  will  be  shown, 
mewing,  sometimes  loud  cries  and  often  rolling 
over  on  the  floor.  It  is  best  to  put  off  mating 
till  a  year  old,  but  if  the  cat  does  not  eat  well 
and  becomes  thin  and  continues  calling  for  more 
than  a  week,  it  is  then  best  to  mate  her.  Some- 
times holding  a  queen  over  too  long  makes  an 
indifferent  mother  and  quite  often  a  poor  breed- 
er. We  will  assume  that  you  have  had  in  mind 
the  male  you  wish  to  breed  your  queen  with. 
If  your  queen  is  very  young,  mate  her  to  an  older 
male ;  if  she  is  old  choose  a  young  male ;  if  she  is 
in  her  prime,  that  is  from  two  to  six  years,  she 
can  be  bred  to  a  male  her  own  age.  If  the  male 
resides  at  a  distance  and  it  is  necessary  to  ship 
your  queen,  provide  a  comfortable  box  or 
shipping  case,  take  to  the  train  yourself  and 
wire  the  owner  of  the  stud  what  time  your 
queen  may  be  expected. 


AT  TIME  OF  MATING  17 


CHAPTER  VII 

At  Time  of  Mating 

If  the  queen  has  been  shipped  when  she 
first  shows  signs  of  being  in  season,  on  arrival 
at  the  strange  cattery  she  should  be  put  in  a 
room  next  to  the  stud  and  left  to  herself  till  she 
becomes  accustomed  to  her  new  surroundings. 
Never  put  her  with  the  male  at  once;  some 
queens  are  very  cross  at  this  time  and  may  in- 
jure your  stud.  If  the  queen  arrived  in  the 
evening,  the  next  morning  put  her  with  the 
stud  for  an  hour  or  until  there  have  been  one  or 
two  matings  then  remove  the  stud  until  evening; 
return  her  for  the  same  length  of  time  but  do 
not  leave  him  with  the  queen  over  night.  It  is 
exhausting  to  both  and  injurious  to  the  male. 
Usually  these  two  matings  will  be  sufficient, 
but  if  the  queen  has  come  a  long  distance  and 
you  are  not  sure,  she  may  be  put  with  the  stud 
once  more  in  the  morning.  Usually  the  male 
will  refuse  to  mate  after  thirty-six  hours.  It 
has  been  my  experience  that  it  is  necessary  for 
the  queen  to  remain  from  three  to  five  days,  as 
on  arrival  she  is  strange  and  nervous.  Very 
often  she  will  not  eat  and  some  studs  will  refuse 
to  eat  at  this  time.  Do  not  feed  them  before 
mating  but  later  give  them  extra  feed.  Have 
fresh  water  where  the  visiting  queen  can  have 


IS         THE    DOMESTIC    AND   LOXG-HAIRED    CAT 

access  to  at  all  times.  When  you  feel  sure  of 
a  successful  mating,  rest  her  and  return  to  her 
owner.  It  is  advisable  to  examine  all  queens 
shipped  to  you  for  skin  troubles,  fleas,  or  disease 
of  any  kind.  I  might  also  add  that  it  is  best 
to  take  as  few  visiting  queens  as  possible;  it  is 
better  to  keep  your  male  cat  for  your  own 
queens. 


CARE   OF   QUEEN  19 

CHAPTER  VIII 

Care  of  Queen  in  Kitten 

When  the  queen  returns  from  her  visit  to 
the  male,  after  a  few  days  she  will  settle  down 
to  her  usual  habits  and  if  bred  sleep  much  more 
than  before.  Give  her  good  nourishing  food, 
see  that  she  is  not  handled  and  do  not  allow  her 
to  jump  from  high  places.  Jumping  is  one  of 
the  causes  of  miscarriage.  Some  queens  will 
begin  house  hunting  at  once  but  others  not  for 
a  few  weeks  before  the  kittens  are  due.  Nine 
weeks  or  sixty-three  days  from  the  day  of  mat- 
ing the  kits  may  be  expected,  but  if  the  queen  is 
well  and  they  do  not  arrive  for  a  few  days  or 
even  a  week,  do  not  be  alarmed,  unless  the 
queen  shows  signs  of  sickness,  does  not  eat,  and 
has  a  discharge.  In  a  case  of  this  kind,  call  a 
good  veterinarian  as  the  cat  has  either  been  in- 
jured or  something  is  wrong. 


20  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

CHAPTER  IX 

Queens  at  time  of  Kittening 

A  comfortable  bed  should  be  provided 
several  weeks  before  the  family  is  expected.  A 
strong  wooden  box,  about  18x18x25  inches, 
lined  or  painted  inside,  with  a  strip  of  wood 
about  six  inches  wide  nailed  on  the  front  at  the 
bottom  to  keep  the  bedding  in  place  and  the 
babies  from  rolling  out.  Curtains  of  dark 
material  tacked  across  the  front  of  the  box 
with  just  enough  space  for  the  cat  to  go  in  and 
out.  For  several  days  before  the  kits  are  due 
keep  a  number  of  thicknesses  of  newspaper  on 
the  bottom  of  the  box.  The  cat  will  tear  these 
papers  to  shreds  many  times  in  making  her  bed 
to  suit  her  and  they  can  be  replaced  by  fresh 
ones.  When  the  day  comes  for  the  kits  to  ar- 
rive have  a  soft  cushion  in  the  box  covered  with 
an  old  bath  towel  or  bedspread.  If  the  cat  has 
been  well  cared  for  during  the  nine  weeks, 
and  not  fed  starchy,  fattening  foods,  she  should 
have  an  easy  time.  However  if  she  is  in  labour 
long  and  in  pain,  give  about  ten  drops  of  Hum- 
phrey's Vet.  G.  G.  in  a  few  drops  of  water, 
every  half  hour  till  all  the  kits  have  been  deliv- 
ered. If  it  is  the  first  litter,  the  cat  may  want 
you  near  her,  and  it  is  often  best  to  plan  accord- 
ingly.    If  the  litter  is  large  it  is  advisable  to 


QUEEN  AT  TIME   OF   KITTENING  21 

have  a  hot-water  bottle  ready.  Wrap  this  in 
a  cloth  and  as  the  mother  takes  care  of  each 
kit,  remove  it  to  the  hot-water  bottle  out  of  her 
way.  After  you  are  sure  all  the  kits  have  ar- 
rived, remove  the  soiled  bedding  and  give  her 
the  babies.  Should  the  mother  seem  exhausted 
before  all  the  kits  arrive  give  her  a  saucer  of 
evaporated  milk  diluted  with  warm  water.  If 
the  kittens  arrive  head  first,  you  will  very  likely 
have  no  trouble  and  aside  from  remaining  near 
and  giving  clean,  dry  bedding,  the  cat  will  re- 
quire no  extra  attention.  Do  not  feed  the 
mother  heavy  meals  for  the  first  two  days;  let 
her  have  plenty  of  fresh  water  and  good  raw 
minced  beef;  do  not  handle  the  kittens; 
protect  them  from  the  light.  It  may  be  your 
queen  will  not  like  a  box  for  her  bed  and  insist 
on  finding  her  own  place.  In  this  case  it  is 
sometimes  best  to  humor  her  till  the  kits  arrive 
and  then  give  her  the  bed  you  wish  her  to  use. 
Sometimes  a  basket  in  a  bed-room  closet  is  a 
favorite  place  till  the  kits  are  old  enough  to 
get  about. 


22  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

CHAPTER  X 

Kittens 

The   first  four  weeks   of  the   kittens'    life 
should   be    left   to    the   mother,    providing   the 
mother  is  a  healthy  normal  cat  with  plenty  of 
nurse.    Soon  as  the  kits  are  born  and  the  mother 
has  cared  for  them,  see  that  each  one  is  getting 
nourishment.     If  they  are   satisfied,  they  will 
soon  cuddle  up  and  spend  most  of  the  time  for 
the  first  two  weeks  sleeping  and  wiggling  about 
the  mother.    If  they  cry  continually,  the  mother 
may  not  have  enough  milk  and  it  may  be  nec- 
essary to  procure  a  foster  mother,  or  to  feed 
with  a  medicine  dropper  equal  parts  of  warm 
water  and  evaporated  milk,  every  hour,  about 
two    droppers'    full    at    a    feeding.     A    foster- 
mother  is  best,  but  the  average  queen  should 
be  able  to  nurse  her  own  kits,  unless  it  is  an  un- 
usually  large    litter.     It   is   then   advisable   to 
pick    out   the   weaklings   or   poorer   specimens 
and  humanely  put  them  to  sleep.     I  consider 
five   kittens   as  large   a   litter   as  one   cat  can 
mother;  no  more  than  one  litter  should  be  taken 
from  a  queen  in  a  year.     There  are  many  cases 
of  queens  being  bred  for  two  and  even  three 
times  a  year,  but  poor  stock  is  the  result  or  the 
queen  leaves  off  breeding  while  young,  or  she 


KITTENS  23 

is  never  in  good  condition  or  coat.  With  highly- 
bred  cats  one  litter  a  year  is  by  far  the  best,  un- 
less the  cat  is  strong  and  healthy  and  has  only 
had  a  litter  of  one  or  two.  Some  fanciers 
think  nature  decides  this  and  that  if  the  queen 
calls,  she  must  be  mated.  This  is  a  sad  mistake 
and  one  good  spring  litter  is  far  more  profitable 
than  two  litters.  Unless  you  have  a  warm, 
comfortable  place  to  raise  late  kittens,  a  late 
fall  litter  is  never  advisable.  As  your  breeding 
queens  grow  older  the  number  of  kittens  in  a 
litter  decreases.  The  average  queen  is  at  her 
best  from  two  to  six  years.  We  have  cases  of 
queens  raising  families  at  the  age  of  ten  and 
twelve  years,  but  as  a  rule  there  is  only  one  or 
two  in  the  litter  and  quite  often  weaklings. 


24  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONO-HAIRED  OAT 


CHAPTER  XI 

Kittens  Aged  One  to  Eight  Months 

At  about  four  weeks  the  kittens  will  try 
to  get  out  of  their  box  or  bed;  arrange  a  pad 
or  incline  so  they  may  get  in  and  out  without 
falling.  They  love  to  run  back  and  forth  and 
this  strengthens  their  legs.  Do  not  let  them 
have  too  much  space  at  first,  they  will  get  lost 
and  worry  the  mother.  Have  a  pan  with  saw- 
dust in  it  or  paper  spread  where  they  can  use 
it,  whichever  you  wish  to  train  them  to  use;  in 
a  short  time,  with  a  little  patience  and  watch- 
ing, you  will  find  them  house-broke.  As  they 
grow  older  increase  their  space  for  exercising 
but  beware  of  dampness  or  draughts.  Do  not 
put  them  on  the  ground  or  on  damp  floors. 
Let  them   have    light   and    sunshine. 

In  a  litter  of  four  or  five,  start  feeding  at 
four  weeks.  Eskey's  Baby  Food  is  excellent 
and  Robinson's  Patent  Barley  is  used  by  many 
of  the  best  fanciers,  made  as  follows:  Put  a 
pint  of  water  in  a  double  broiler  and  bring  to  a 
boil,  add  one  tablespoon  of  the  Patent  Barley, 
stirred  to  a  paste  in  a  little  cold  water  with  a 
pinch  of  salt  and  one  tablespoon  of  sugar;  let 
simmer,  not  boil,  for  forty-five  minutes.  Set 
away  to  cool,  and  when  wanted  for  use,  add 
enough  evaporated  milk  to  a  saucer  of  the  Bar- 


KITTENS  AGED  ONE  TO  EIGHT  MONTHS  25 

ley  to  make  the  color  of  milk,  a  little  lime  water 
and  give  to  the  kits  just  warm  enough  to  drink. 
Some  of  the  kits  will  lap  it  readily,  others  it 
may  be  necessary  to  teach  by  putting  their  noses 
into  it  or  putting  some  on  their  mouths  but  as  a 
rule  they  soon  learn.  Give  them  this  three  times 
a  day  and  if  the  mother  cat  has  scant  nurse, 
let  her  also  have  the  barley.  At  five  weeks, 
a  pinch  of  raw  scraped  beef,  moistened  with 
lime  water,  can  be  given  once  a  day  to  each 
kit.  About  as  much  as  the  tip  of  the  finger 
and  do  not  let  them  swallow  it  all  at  one  time. 
See  that  each  kit  gets  its  portion. 

At  six  weeks  add  a  little  of  Spratt's  pepsin- 
ated  puppy  meal  to  the  meat  with  a  speck  of 
salt  and  bonemeal.  Old  Trusty  puppy  meal 
makes  a  splendid  food  for  kits.  For  a  litter  of 
four,  take  a  tablespoon  of  the  meal,  moisten 
with  hot  water,  add  the  meat,  salt  and  bone- 
meal,  mix  well  and  divide  into  equal  parts  and 
see  that  each  kit  gets  an  equal  share.  Some 
are  greedy  and  may  take  more  than  one  share. 
At  first  feed  this  once  a  day  with  three  feedings 
of  the  Barley.  In  a  week  or  ten  days  as  the 
kits  grow,  feed  twice  a  day  with  two  feedings 
of  Barley.  Increase  the  amount  as  the  kits 
grow,  but  do  not  start  vegetables  too  soon,  but 
a  little  cream  of  wheat  may  be  added  to  the 
Barley  three  of  four  times  a  week,  at  the  age  of 
two  months. 


26  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONCx-HAIRED  CAT 

At  the  age  of  four  or  five  months,  a  little 
green  cooked  vegetable  may  be  added  to  one 
of  the  meat  meals.  Such  as  spinach  chopped 
fine,  beets,  cabbage,  carrots  are  fine,  asparagus, 
in  fact  any  biit  starchy  foods  like  potato.  At 
this  age  two  feedings  of  solid  food,  with  Barley 
or  evaporated  ^nilk  and  water  given  at  night, 
and  several  times  a  week  some  good  raw  beef- 
bones  for.  the  kits  to  work  on  to  assist  teething, 
should  make  a  healthy  diet.  Have  the  bones 
large  enough  so  they  can  not  be  swallowed  and 
never  use  sharp  bones  or  those  that  will  splint. 
Shin  bone  or  shoulder  bones  are  best. 


FEEDING  27 

CHAPTER  XII 

Feeding 

■  Much  Has  been  said  about  the  feeding  of 
cats.  It  has  been  a  common  idea*  for  years  that 
the  chief  food  for  "puss"  wa«  milk.  ^  It  is 
quite  true  that  manj^  cats  on  farms  live  chiefly 
on  cow's  milk,  but  it  must  also  ^be  taken  into 
consideration  that  these  cats  have  their  liberty 
and  hunt  for  game  which  takes  the  place  of  the 
raw  meat  provided  for  the  pedigreed  cat.  If 
you  are  breeding  pedigreed  animals  you  will 
find  feeding  as  well  as  breeding  counts  and  the 
best  results  are  obtained  from  a  diet  of  raw 
beef.  The  diet  should  vary,  but  a  percentage 
of  raw  beef  should  form  part  of  each  meal. 
The  adult  cat  only  requires  two  meals  a  day. 
A  mother  cat  with  kittens  three  meals,  with  a 
feeding  of  diluted  evaporated  milk.  Feeding  of 
kittens  can  be  found  in  a  previous  chapter.  For 
the  first  meal,  one-third  of  Old  Trusty  puppy 
or  Spratt's  puppy  biscuit,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a 
sprinkling  of  bone-meal,  (unless  it  be  a  cat  in 
kitten,  when  the  bone-meal  should  be  omitted), 
enough  hot  water  to  moisten  and  soften  the 
meal ;  into  this  two-thirds  of  good  raw  beef.  I 
advise  the  buying  of  the  cheaper  cuts  of  beef 
(neck  and  shin)  in  preference  to  ''hamburger"; 
also  leave  a  small  percent  of  fat  on  the  meat 


2S  THE  DOMESTIC  AiND  EONG-HAIKED  CAT 

as  animals  require  a  percentage  of  fat  in  their 
diet.  By  buying  these  cheaper  cuts  and  grind- 
ing the  meat,  the  bones  may  be  relished  by 
both  the  adult  cats  and  also  used  for  the  kittens. 
To  this  first  meal  may  be  added  a  cooked  vege- 
table, cooked  and  chopped  fine,  well  mixed 
with  the  meat  and  biscuit;  a  different  vegetable 
each  day  will  vary  the  diet  and  be  much  relish- 
ed by  the  cat.  For  the  second  meal,  the  raw 
meat  and  biscuit  without  the  vegetable.  In 
warm  weather  cooked  fish,  boiled  and  boned, 
may  be  used  once  a  week  in  place  of  meat,  but 
if  it  does  not  agree  with  the  cat  or  loosens  the 
bowel,  it  is  well  to  omit.  Never  use  canned 
salmon;  there  is  no  nourishment  in  salmon.  A 
sardine  in  oil  is  sometimes  relished  as  a  treat. 
In  the  fall  when  the  cats  are  putting  on  coat, 
boiled  rice  may  take  the  place  of  a  vegetable, 
and  about  once  a  month  corn-meal  mush.  Len- 
tils may  also  be  used  and  are  fine  for  coat  grow- 
ing. Avoid  wet  feeding  and  cow's  milk;  this 
produces  dysentery,  so  fatal  to  kittens.  Feed 
only  as  much  as  will  be  eaten  quickly;  never 
leave  food  in  dishes.  Also  have  fresh  grass 
accessible,  or  sprouted  oats,  plenty  of  fresh 
water  and  once  or  twice  a  month  catnip  for  a 
treat.  By  planning  a  day  ahead  a  change  of 
menu  may  be  given  the  cat  and  it  will  be  great- 
ly appreciated.  Lamb  may  be  cooked  with  rice 
or  fed  raw  once  a  week  and  is  very  nourishing. 


FEEDING  29 

In  the  summer  months  feed  smaller  meals 
and  in. extreme  hot  weather,  straight  raw  beef, 
just  enough  to  satisfy.  The  stud,  if  being  used 
frequently,  must  be  fed  a  larger  proportion  of 
meat.  The  neuter,  after  attaining  full  growth, 
sometimes  does  better  on  one  meal  a  day,  as 
overfeeding  and  lack  of  exercise  will  shorten 
the  life  of  most  any  animal. 


:U)  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 


CHAPTER  XIII 

Daily  Care  of  the  Long-haired  Cat 

A  well  groomed  cat  is  an  object  of  beauty 
and  is  often  admired  by  those  who  do  not  like 
cats,  but  the  cat  whose  coat  is  a  mass  of  tangles 
and  dirt  is  not  pleasant  to  the  touch  or  eye. 
First  secure  a  good  brush  and  two  combs. 
Spratt's  imported  grooming  brush  made  of 
bristles  is  the  best.  The  combs  should  both  be 
of  steel.  Spratt's  are  the  best  on  the  market. 
Have  one  with  large,  coarse  teeth  for  combing 
out  all  snarls.  Have  one  very  fine  small  comb, 
about  number  eight,  for  combing  fleas.  Comb 
lightly  in  the  fall,  when  the  new  coat  is  first 
coming;  just  enough  to  prevent  tangles,  then 
brush  the  hair  forward — never  flat  down.  In 
the  spring  when  the  coat  is  being  shed,  more 
vigorous  combing  can  be  done.  The  daily  use 
of  the  flea  comb  will  soon  get  any  fleas  that 
may  be  around  unless  the  cat's  surroundings 
are  such  that  the  fleas  abound  in  large  quant- 
ities, when  some  other  means  will  have  to  be 
employed.  Start  combing  kittens  at  an  early 
age  and  they  will  become  accustomed  to  it  and 
be  much  more  easily  handled  later  on.  Five 
minutes  a  day  will  keep  a  cat  in  good  condition, 
if  done  each  day.  A  properly  kept  cat,  with 
clean  surroundings,  well  fed,  combed  every  day, 


DAILY  CARE  OF  THE  LONG-HAIRED  CAT  31 

needs  very  little  extra  grooming  at  show  time. 
Do  not  wash  the  cat.  Cats  as  a  rule  dislike 
water,  and  washing  only  tends  to  make  them 
neglect  themselves.  Light  colored  cats  may  be 
dry-cleaned  by  first  rubbing  them  lightly  with 
a  cloth  wet  with  alcohol;  then  powdered  with 
cornstarch  or  talcum;  be  sure  that  the  powder 
is  all  brushed  out,  v/hich  will  require  several 
brushings,  as  powder  found  on  a  cat  in  a  show, 
is  the  means  of  disqualifying  the  entry.  For 
any  reason  if  it  becomes  absolutely  necessary 
to  wash  the  animal,  be  sure  that  a  pure  soap 
free  from  strong  acids  is  used.  See  that  the 
soap  does  not  get  in  the  eyes,  and  after  rinsing, 
wrap  in  a  bath  towel  or  sheet,  rub  gently  until 
nearly  dry  and  then  place  in  a  covered  basket, 
over  a  heater  or  in  front  of  a  fire-place.  Be 
sure  the  animal  is  dry  and  protected  from 
draughts  for  several  hours  after  bathing. 


.'^2  THE  DOMESTIC   AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

CHAPTER  XIV 

Care  of  Ears 

All  cats,  especially  long-haired,  are  subject 
to  ear  troubles,  the  commonest  form  being 
ear-mites.  These  resemble  a  brown,  hard  wax, 
almost  scaly,  which  if  put  under  a  magnifying 
glass,  will  prove  to  be  live  insects.  Young 
kittens  five  or  six  weeks  old  may  have  these 
and  they  are  highly  contagious.  This  ear-mite 
if  not  cared  for  develops  into  ear-canker.  A 
simple  treatment  for  ear-mite  is  as  follows: 
First  cleanse  the  ear  with  a  soft  cloth  or  piece 
of  cotton,  moistened  with  a  warm  solution  of 
Borac  Acid.  Use  the  blunt  end  of  a  small  wire 
hair  pin,  and  when  all  wax  and  dirt  have  been 
removed  and  the  ear  thoroughly  dry,  drop  in 
dry  Borac  and  Iodoform;  one  part  Iodoform  to 
three  of  the  borac.  See  that  it  goes  inside  the 
ear  and  does  not  get  on  the  fur  as  it  is  very  of- 
fensive to  the  animal.  Repeat  in  a  few  days, 
and  quite  often  one  treatment  will  cure,  but 
the  ears  must  be  kept  clean.  The  ears  should 
be  cleaned  once  a  week.  In  cases  where  ear 
canker  has  developed,  I  advise  the  services  of 
a  good  veterinarian.  Ear  trouble  can  be  easily 
detected  by  the  constant  scratching  of  the  ears 
and  shaking  of  the  head.  Watch  the  kitten's 
ears  and  see  that  they  are  kept  clean,  also  the 
older  cats;  look  them  over  once  a  week  and  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  and  more  serious  ailments 
will  be  spared  the  cat. 


CARE   OF   EYES 


CHAPTER  XV 
Care  of  Eyes 

Kittens  when  first  born  and  for  two  weeks, 
should  be  kept  from  the  direct  rays  of  the  light; 
in  fact  for  three  weeks  it  is  best  to  keep  them 
in  semi-darkness.  The  kitten's  eyes  should 
open  on  the  ninth  day  and  if  not,  the  eye  should 
be  carefully  examined  and  if  found  to  be  rough, 
bathe  with  warm  milk  and  hold  for  the  mother 
to  wash.  Should  they  continue  to  be  sore  after 
first  open,  a  little  vaseline  may  be  applied. 

A  sore  eye  caused  by  a  cold  or  exposure 
to  the  wind,  or  something  in  the  eye,  may  be 
bathed  with  the  following  solution :  To  a  pint 
of  boiling  water,  add  one  teaspoon  Borac  Acid, 
one-quarter  teaspoon  salt,  bathe  the  eye  with 
the  warm  solution,  using  fresh  absorbent  cotton 
each  time.  If  the  eye  does  not  yield  to  this 
treatment,  one  drop  or  20  per  cent  solution  of 
Argyrol  may  be  dropped  in  the  eye,  night  and 
morning.  In  cases  of  ulceration  of  the  eye  or 
a  bad  scratch,  it  is  always  best  to  consult  a  re- 
liable veterinarian. 

One  of  the  main  causes  of  eye  trouble,  is 
worms.  To  have  clear,  bright  eyes,  the  cat 
must  be  kept  free  from  worms.  Also  living  in 
damp,  draughty  places,  or  sitting  in  strong 
winds,  will  cause  sore  eyes;  and  the  use  of 
strong  disinfectants  is  very  harmful  to  eyes. 


3  4  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

CHAPTER  XVI 

Teeth 

Between  the  age  of  three  and  eight  months, 
the  kitten  cuts  the  permanent  teeth,  thirty  in 
number.  It  may  be  the  animal  will  refuse  to 
eat,  or  works  at  the  mouth.  On  examination,  a 
loose  tooth  will  be  found  and  can  easily  be  re- 
moved. In  the  adult  cat,  tartar  may  form  on 
the  teeth,  which  must  be  removed  and  the  gums 
well  washed  with  Listerine.  Always  see  that 
decayed  or  loose  teeth  are  removed.  If  good 
raw  bones  are  given  to  kittens  at  the  teething 
period,  much  trouble  can  be  avoided. 


WORMS  3  5 


CHAPTER  XVII 
Worms 

It  is  doubtful  if  the  owners  and  breeders 
of  cats  are  aware  of  the  many  troubles  caused 
by  worms.  No  animal  with  worms  can  be  at 
its  best.  Dysentery,  chronic  catarrh,  sore  eyes, 
poor  coat,  loss  of  appetite  then  again  ravenous 
appetite,  are  some  of  the  signs  that  the  animal 
has  worms. 

The  round-worm  and  the  tape-worm  are 
the  most  common  kind  found  among  cats. 
Many  claim  the  tape-worm  is  caused  by  fleas, 
the  flea  eggs  being  taken  into  the  stomach  with 
hair  when  the  cat  washes.  Some  claim  too 
much  meat  causes  worms,  but  whatever  the 
cause  and  we  are  not  at  all  sure  of  the  cause, 
the  worms  must  be  removed. 

There  are  a  number  of  good  worm  medi- 
cines on  the  market.  Be  sure  to  follow  direct- 
ions closely  and  be  sure  it  is  a  remedy  you  can 
feel  safe  to  give.  The  ''Cat  Courier"  published 
in  Detroit,  Michigan,  address  to  Henry  Clay 
Hotel,  handles  very  reliable  cat  remedies,  and 
Dr.  Woodruff,  of  Brainard  &  Woodruff,  Cleve- 
land, Ohio,  also  puts  up  a  good  worm  medicine. 
All  cats  should  be  wormed  at  intervals  of  about 
six  weeks  to  two  months,  whether  they  show 
signs  of  worms  or  not,  as  it  will  keep  them  free 


36        THE   DOMESTIC   AND   LONG-HAIRED   CAT 

from  hair  and  worms.  Hair  in  the  stomach 
from  washing,  if  not  removed,  causes  hair- 
balls,  and  these  are  very  bad  for  the  cat.  All 
cats  except  a  cat  in  kitten,  or  kitten  under  two 
months,  should  be  wormed  at  least  four  or  five 
times  a  year.  Do  not  worm  your  cat  immedi- 
ately after  an  illness,  as  an  animal  already  in 
a  weakened  condition  can  not  stand  worming. 
If  in  doubt  about  the  trouble  with  your  cat,  call 
a  good  veterinary  but  do  not  wait  to  see  if  the 
cat  will  first  recover  and  then  call  him  and  ex- 
pect him  to  perform  a  miracle  by  curing  an 
animal  that  is  past  help. 


VOMITING  37 

CHAPTER  XVIII 

Vomiting 

Vomiting  may  result  from  an  overloaded 
stomach,  particularly  if  the  cat  has  not  been 
fed  for  a  great  length  of  time ;  or  it  may  indicate 
stomach  trouble,  indigestion,  or  very  often, 
worms.  When  it  occurs  in  a  cat  in  good  health, 
it  need  not  cause  much  alarm  unless  it  continues 
and  the  cat  shows  other  signs  of  illness,  such 
as  loose  bowels  and  extreme  thirst.  If  the 
vomiting  occurs  from  an  overloaded  stomach 
or  a  hair-ball  is  brought  up,  no  medicine  is 
necessary.  If  from  some  other  cause,  try  one 
teaspoon  of  pure  witch-hazel  with  the  same 
amount  of  water,  given  as  one  dose.  Use  a 
medicine  dropper.  Repeat  in  one  hour;  follow 
with  treatment  of  Humphrey's  Vet.  J.  K.  given 
as  directed  for  small  animals.  I  can  not  speak 
too  highly  of  the  Humphrey's  remedies,  as  they 
should  be  in  every  cattery.  Keep  the  animal 
on  a  scraped  raw  beef  diet;  if  food  is  refused, 
use  discretion  about  force  feeding  which  is 
seldom  successful.  Bismuth  Subnitrate,  in  num- 
ber four  capsules,  given  three  times  a  day,  while 
the  bowels  are  loose,  is  also  very  good. 


3S         THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 


CHAPTER  XIX 
Dysentery 

Dysentery  has  many  causes.  Improper 
feeding,  colds,  worms,  stomach  trouble  and 
indigestion.  If  from  worms,  use  a  good  worm 
medicine;  if  improper  feeding,  change  the  diet; 
if  from  a  cold  or  indigestion,  a  dose  of  castor 
oil  followed  by  Arsenicum  3X  one  every  hour; 
in  a  severe  case,  one  every  half  hour;  when  the 
patient  shows  signs  of  improvement  give  three 
times  a  day.  If  the  bowels  become  slightly 
constipated,  open  the  cat's  mouth  and  put  a 
generous  piece  of  butter  or  vaseline  on  the  roof 
of  the  mouth  two  or  three  times  a  day  or  until 
results  are  obtained. 

In  kittens,  dysentery  often  occurs  at  teeth- 
ing time  or  from  tainted  foods  or  sour  milk. 
The  following  treatment  has  been  given  to  us 
by  a  fancier  who  has  used  it  with  good  results. 
One-quarter  teaspoon  ginger,  one-quarter  tea- 
spoon baking  soda,  one  cup  real  warm  water, 
stir  and  then  let  settle  and  pour  off  the  clear 
liquid.  Give  one  teaspoon  every  hour  at  first, 
later  every  two  or  three  hours  as  needed.  In 
some  cases  a  dose  of  oil  an  hour  before  the  gin- 
ger remedy  is  advisable.  Always  use  a  medi- 
cine dropper  when  giving  liquid  medicines.  A 
number  four  capsule  of  Bismuth,  three  times 
a  day  while  the  bowels  are  bad  is  very  good  in 
all  cases. 


SKIN  DISEASE  39 

CHAPTER  XX 

Skin  Diseases 

There  are  many  forms  of  skin  diseases 
found  among  cats.  Some  are  contagious  and 
some  infectious.  The  idea  that  all  skin  troub- 
les of  the  cat  are  mange  is  a  great  mistake  as 
few  cases  of  mange  are  ever  found.  Eczema 
is  often  found;  caused  by  feeding  cereals  and 
not  enough  meat;  sometimes  caused  by  cli- 
matic conditions;  sometimes  the  animal  is  an- 
aemic. First  correct  the  diet,  and  if  all  fat  has 
been  omitted  add  this  to  the  diet  by  the  use  of 
a  good  cod-liver  oil,  given  once  or  twice  a  day. 
Be  sure  that  the  oil  does  not  upset  the  stomach 
or  it  will  have  to  be  omitted.  Feed  good  raw 
beef.  The  following  ointment  will  be  found 
free  from  poisons  and  not  injurious  to  the  cat: 
Sulphur,  8  grains;  Zinc  Oxide,  19  grains;  Borac 
Acid,  8  grains;  Salicylic  Acid,  6  grains;  about 
six  ounces  of  Petrolatum,  just  enough  to  give  it 
a  thick  consistency.  Apply  to  sores  once  a  day. 
The  above  ointment  can  be  used  in  all  skin 
eruptions.  Humphrey's  also  have  a  medicine, 
their  Vet.  I.  I.  which  is  good  for  skin  troubles 
caused  by  the  blood  or  stomach.  Humphrey's 
remedies  are  a  standard  remedy  and  for  sale  by 
most  druggists. 


40  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 


CHAPTER  XXI 

Distemper 

There  is  perhaps  no  other  ailment  as  com- 
mon or  as  fatal  to  cats  as  distemper.  It  is 
highly  contagious  and  can  even  be  carried  on 
the  clothes  of  the  one  handling  the  sick  animal. 
Catteries  where  this  disease  has  existed  can 
not  be  too  carefully  fumigated,  as  the  germs 
have  been  known  to  remain  in^a  building  over 
a  year.  The  word  distemper  does  not  mean  a 
disease  but  ''the  symptoms  of  a  disease."  There 
are  three  forms.  The  catarrhal,  effecting  the 
eyes,  nose  and  throat.  This  form  is  the  slowest 
to  cure  but  the  least  fatal.  The  first  symp- 
toms are  usually  those  of  a  cold,  sneezing, 
watery  eyes,  nose  discharging,  loss  of  appetite, 
very  often  vomiting  of  white  froth.  A  fever 
usually  accompanies  all  cat  ills.  Humphrey's 
Vet.  A.  A.  is  the  best  fever  reducer.  Salina 
Cold  Cure,  given  every  hour  with  vaseline 
smeared  on  the  roof  of  the  mouth  several  times 
a  day;  the  cat  must  be  kept  dry  and  warm  and 
free  from  draughts.  Keep  the  nose  clean  of 
all  discharge  and  well  greased  with  vaseline; 
if  the  eyes  are  inflamed,  use  a  20  per  cent  solu- 
tion of  Argyrol,  one  drop  night  and  morning. 
Keep  all  bedding  clean  and  destroy  all  clothes 
used  in  caring  for  the  sick  animal.     The  best 


DISTEMPER  41 

diet  is  raw,  scraped  beef  and  when  the  patient 
is  improving,  a  little  boiled  fresh  fish,  or  some- 
times a  sardine  in  oil  will  tempt  the  cat  to  eat. 
It  is  always  advisable  to  have  on  hand  the  Sal- 
ina  Cold  Cure  and  at  the  first  symptoms  of  a 
cold,  use  at  once.  This  may  be  the  means  of 
preventing  complications.  Pabalum  is  another 
splendid  remedy  to  have  ready.  This  can  be 
given  once  a  day  in  capsules  and  is  a  tonic 
and  usually  keeps  the  animal  eating,  which  is 
one  of  the  main  helps  to  a  cure.  The  head  and 
nose  discharge  may  last  for  some  time,  but  if 
the  cat  eats  well  and  is  kept  clean  and  dry 
this  should  clear  up.  Winter  distemper  is 
slower  to  cure  than  distemper  contracted  in  the 
spring  as  the  cat  is  sometimes  left  in  a  weaken- 
ed condition  and  warm  sunny  weather  does 
much  to  help  a  cure.  The  throat  form  of  dis- 
temper very  often  develops  into  pneumonia. 
In  the  first  stages  the  animal  has  difficulty  in 
swallowing,  often  a  harsh  cough,  and  refuses 
all  food.  Use  generously  of  vaseline,  with 
Humphrey's  Vet.  A.  A.  and  their  C.  C.  given 
alternately;  but  should  pneumonia  develop,  con- 
tinue the  above  treatment  and  clip  the  hair  on 
throat  and  chest  and  first  apply  hot  pads  or 
hot  cloths  and  then  a  generous  application  of 
Vick's  Vapor  Rub.  Cut  holes  in  piece  of  Can- 
ton-flannel and  put  the  front  legs  through  and 
bring   up   over  the   back   and   pin.     Keep   the 


4  2        THE   DOMESTIC   AND   LONG-HAIRED   CAT 

cat  in  the  room  about  sixty-five  degrees  and  out 
of  draughts.  It  is  best  to  have  a  cage  to  keep 
the  animal  in  until  the  danger  is  past.  When 
the  fever  leaves  great  care  must  be  taken  or 
a  chill  may  cause  a  relapse.  As  the  patient  im- 
proves great  care  must  be  taken  in  the  diet  and 
the  most  nourishing  food  given.  A  one  grain 
capsule  of  quinine  given  twice  a  day  for  twelve 
days  is  an  excellent  tonic  for  a  cat  recovering 
from  distemper.  Sometimes  after  an  attack  of 
distemper  the  bowels  will  become  constipated. 
Castor  oil  or  cathartics  are  too  severe  at  this 
time.  A  mild  enema  of  warm  water  given  with 
an  ear  syringe  or  using  the  smallest  tube  of  a 
fountain  syringe.  This  will  give  relief  at  once. 
Be  sure  the  patient  is  kept  quiet  and  out  of 
draught  and  only  fed  nourishing  food  such  as 
raw  scraped  beef,  juice  from  raw  beef,  milk 
and  egg  beaten  together,  a  little  boiled  fresh 
fish,  or  a  sardine  in  oil  to  tempt  the  appetite. 
When  the  animal  is  again  eating,  the  regular 
diet  can  be  resumed. 

The  last  form  of  distemper  and  the  most 
fatal,  is  the  gastric  form.  This  form  is  also 
highly  contagious  and  usually  fatal  in  a  few 
hours.  No  real  cure  has  been  found  for  an  ad- 
vanced form  of  this  disease,  as  the  cat  does  not 
show  illness  until  too  far  advanced  to  cure.  If 
the  animal's  temperature  is  taken,  a  high  fever 
will  be  found.     Right  here  I  wish  to  say  that 


DISTEMPER  43 

it  is  an  easy  matter  to  take  the  cat's  temper- 
ature by  rectum.  Normal  temperature  should 
be  about  101  to  1011/4  or  lOli/i-  This  form 
of  distemper  most  resembles  typhoid.  It  is 
accompanied  by  frequent  vomiting,  bowels  al- 
ternately constipated  of  offensive  diarrhoea, 
often  of  a  dirty  green  color;  great  prostration, 
high  temperature,  tenderness  of  the  abdomen, 
intensive  thirst,  and  the  animal  usually  refuses 
to  move  and  lies  stretched  out  on  the  side. 

I  can  recommend  the  following  treatment 
but  if  the  cat  has  not  been  a  meat  fed  animal 
and  has  been  fed  cereals  and  ''slop  feeding"  I 
can  not  vouch  for  the  results.  First  the  vomit- 
ing must  be  checked;  use  the  witch-hazel  and 
water  as  given  in  Chapter  XVIII,  and  follow 
with  Humphrey's  Vet.  A.  A.  and  J.  K.,  alter- 
nating every  hour.  For  the  bowels  if  loose, 
Arsenicum  3X  every  half  hour;  if  constipated, 
the  mild  enema.  Then  the  Humphrey's  Vet. 
A.  A.  and  J.  K.  faithfully.  Do  not  reduce  the 
fever  too  suddenly,  and  when  the  temperature 
is  normal,  stop  the  A.  A.  and  continue  the  J.  K. 
till  the  patient  is  again  eating.  Once  a  day 
give  a  No.  1  capsule  of  Pabulum.  Be  sure  the 
patient  is  kept  in  a  clean,  comfortable  place. 
It  is  best  to  isolate  and  a  cage  such  as  is  used 
for  show  purposes  is  the  best  for  this  purpose 
for  if  left  in  a  large  space,  the  animal  is  liable 
to  crawl  away  into  some  cold  corner.     If  forced 


44  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

feeding  becomes  necessary,  only  liquids  such  as 
juice  from  beef,  milk  and  egg  or  in  extreme 
cases,  a  small  quantity  of  brandy.  Use  a  med- 
icine dropper.  In  severe  case  of  gastric  trouble 
it  is  best  not  to  force  food  the  first  thirty-six 
hours.  If  the  patient  recovers,  the  most  care- 
ful attention  must  be  given  to  the  diet,  as  an 
overfeeding, may  upset  the  cat  and  cause  instant 
death.  Feed  small  portions  and  several  times 
a  day.  When  the  cat  is  out  of  danger  regular 
feeding  may  be  continued.  I  strongly  avocate 
the  inoculation  of  all  young  stock  v^ith  serum 
for  distemper  prevention.  If  it  is  contracted 
after  inoculation,  it  is  usually  only  in  a  mild 
form.  A  reliable  veterinarian  should  be  con- 
sulted for  this  purpose. 


PREPARING  FOR  SHOWS  4  5 

CHAPTER  XXII 

Preparing  for  Shows 

The  cat  that  has  been  properly  fed  and 
cared  for  will  require  very  little  extra  attention 
at  show  time.  If  the  old  hair  has  been  combed 
out  in  the  spring  and  the  fleas  gotten  rid  of, 
the  new  coat  should  be  coming  along  nicely 
about  October.  Comb  carefully  with  a  large 
steel  comb,  just  enough  to  not  have  knots  form 
and  then  brush  once  or  twice  a  day  with  a  good 
bristle  brush ;  be  sure  and  brush  forward  toward 
the  head.  Also  see  that  the  ears  are  clean. 
If  you  own  a  stud  cat,  see  that  the  oil  is  cleaned 
from  the  upper  part  of  the  tail;  this  is  often 
called  *'stud  oil"  and  sometimes  discolors  the 
tail.  Soap  and  water  is  as  good  as  anything 
for  this.  Do  not  send  or  take  your  cat  to  a 
show  in  poor  condition ;  fleas,  dirt,  knots  in  the 
coat,  dirty  ears,  all  count  against  the  animal 
when  judging.  If  a  light  colored  cat,  it  may  be 
necessary  to  wash  the  animal  before  showing. 
This  should  be  done  a  few  days  before  show 
time  and  the  cat  thoroughly  dried  and  then 
brushed  well.  Some  cats  if  not  too  soiled  can 
be  cleaned  by  rubbing  with  alcohol  and  then 
powdering  with  corn-starch  of  talcum.  This 
powder  must  all  be  brushed  out  before  the  show 
or  the  judge  may  disqualify  the  entry. 


46  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

Last  and  bj-  no  means  least,  ship  j^our  cat 
in  a  good  carrier  or  box,  well  protected  from 
the  weather.  A  lined  box  is  best,  as  it  protects 
the  long  hair.  It  is  advisable  to  accompany  your 
cat  when  possible.  If  a  little  time  each  day  has 
been  given  to  the  care  of  the  ears  and  combing, 
very  little  remains  to  be  done  for  show  time. 
Conditioning  can  not  he  done  in  one  or  two 
weeks.  It  is  the  daily  care  that  shows  and 
brings  results. 


MEDICINES  TO  KEEP  ON  HAND  47 

Medicines  to   Have  on  Hand 
Humphrey's    Vet.    Remedies 

A.  A. — For  fever  and  lung  congestion. 

C.  C. — For  head  colds,  discharge  from  nose. 

D.  D. — For  worms. 

E.  E. — Coughs,  hard  breathing. 

F.  F. — Dysentery. 

G.  G. — Prevents  miscarriages,    arrests   hemor- 

rhages and  throws  off  afterbirth.  Splendid 
at  time  of  kittening  when  cat  has  difficult 
time.  Ten  drops  every  fifteen  minutes  till 
delivery.     Will  also  bring  dead  kittens. 

H.  H. — For  bladder  and  kidney  trouble. 

I.  I. — For  skin  eruptions. 

J.  K. — for  indigestion,  gastric  troubles,  out  of 
condition. 
The  above  remedies  are  standard  and  can 

be  procured  from  any  reliable  druggist.     They 

are  Homoeopathic. 

Wilson's  Worm  Medicine,  (imported) — Sold  by 
the  Cat  Courier,  Henry  Clay  Hotel,  Detroit, 
Michigan. 

Dr.  Woodruff's  Worm  Medicine — Brainard  & 
Woodruff,  Cleveland,  Ohio. 


48  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 

The  following  remedies  are  all  Homoeo- 
pathic and  can  only  be  procured  from  a 
Homoeopathic  druggist.  They  all  come  3X 
strength. 

Arsenicum — bowel  troubles. 

Bryonia — Bronchitis. 

Nux  Vomica — One  of  the  best  remedies  for  in- 
digestion, effects  liver  and  bowels. 

Rhus  Tox — Used  externally  with  sulphur,  for 
skin   troubles.     Internally  for   ring-worm. 

Cimicifuga — For  pregnant  queen  two  weeks  be- 
fore kittening,  three  times  a  day. 

Phosphorus — Useful  in  bronchitis,  excellent  for 
kits  in  distemper. 

Sallna  Cold  Remedies — On  sale  by  Cat  Courier, 
also  many  of  the  above. 

Pabulum — A  real  conditioner  and  tonic.  For 
sale  by  the  Standard  Drug  Co.,  Cleveland, 
Ohio. 

Bottle  of  Vaseline. 

Bottle  of  Vick's  Vapor  Rub. 

Borac  Acid. 

Murine — For  the  eyes. 

Argyrol — For  the  eyes  and  nose,  should  In' 
bought  in  small  quantities,  as  it  loses  its 
strength. 

Witch-Hazel — Sure  that  it  is  for  internal  use. 


MEDICINES  TO  KEEP  ON  HAND  49 

Bismuth — For  stomach  and  bowel. 

Quinine  Capsules — One  gr.  for  colds  and  tonic. 

Pine-Tar — To  burn  as  a  disinfectant,  one  of  the 

best  after  illness. 
Mineral  Oil — As  a  mild  laxative. 
Last  but  not  least,  Columbia  Healing  Powder — 

For  all   cuts  and   scratches.     Handled   by 

the  ''Courier." 

The  following  description  has  been  donat- 
ed as  a  cure  for  piles.  This  has  becomea  com- 
mon complaint  among  cats,  and  is  caused  by 
constipation.  The  symptoms  are  lameness  in 
hind  legs,  sometimes  constant  washing  of  hind 
parts,  loss  of  appetite.  Straining  at  stool.  On 
examination  of  the  rectum,  sores  or  ulcers  will 
be  found  and  must  be  opened.  If  found  to  be 
high  in  the  rectum,  a  veterinary  should  be 
called. 
Pile  Cure — V2  oz.  vaseline,,  have  druggist  mix 

with  one-tenth  amount  of  calomel.     Bathe 

the  parts  with  good  pure  soap  and  warm 

water  and  apply  salve  night  and  morning. 

In  all  cases  of  injury  a  good  veterinary 
should  be  consulted  and  if  the  animal  can  not 
be  helped,  humanely  destroyed. 


50  THE  DOMESTIC  AND  LONG-HAIRED  CAT 


The  Cat  Courier 

A  monthly  magazine,  published  in  the  in- 
terests of  Cat  Fanciers,  Cat  Clubs,  Cat  Shows 
and  Cats  in  general.  All  the  news  of  the  Cat 
World  all  over  the  world  every  month. 

$1.50  a  year. 

G.  E.  Taylor,  Publisher,  care  of  Henry 
Clay   Hotel,    Detroit,    Michigan. 

We  carry  a  complete  line  of  cattery  and 
kennel  supplies.  Exclusive  Agent  for  ABC 
Cat  Book. 


JUN  82 


N.  MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA  46962 


